humanX Administrator
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Posts by humanX

    I've been using various forms of Logitech keyboards for about 15 years. Up until two years ago all of the keyboards that I have used, including the Microsoft ones from the 90s, have been mechanical with the standard raised keys. Mechanical keyboards are great with one exception, the noise. We have a two bedroom apartment and the one extra room is used for when our grown kids come to visit and want to stay the night. Which means I can't use it for a gaming/office set up. Luckily our bedroom is huge and can fit two desks along with the bed and wardrobe cabinets. My wife's biggest complaint about my late night gaming and typing has been the noise the keyboard and mouse make. So for several years I've been using a board with laptop style keys. I'm not really into the gaming keyboard/mouse scene, so I tend to buy ones that work well in an office environment as well as gaming. That doesn't mean I won't buy and use one designed specifically for gaming, as long as it is also practical for work too. An example of this, is the mouse I have been using for the last several years...a Logitech G500S gaming mouse. The clicks aren't silent, but it's the best mouse I've ever owned and I'm not willing to part with it yet. Stored away in my computer accessories cabinet I also have an older Logitech G15 gaming keyboard. I'll probably be tossing it into the trash. The loud clicking noise, non-illuminated keys and the size make it useless for what I am looking for in a keyboard.


    The Keyboard I am using now is a Logitech K800 illuminated.



    Up until about a month ago I have been satisfied with it. But recently the rechargeable battery has been unable to hold a charge as long as it used to. Which means after an hour of gaming, I have to plug it in while still playing. Also certain keys, such as the "w" and "enter" keys, will stop working altogether. When I turn the keyboard off and then on, the keys will respond again. This is obviously unacceptable, especially since the "w" is used for moving forward in gaming. This glitch in the middle of combat has caused me to die a couple of times already. I lost my patience with this mess and decided to order another keyboard. This time I was looking for a wired board. After browsing the net I found a Logitech keyboard with similar specs...the K740 illuminated. It costs around 70 Euros and it will arrive tomorrow.

    I installed Far Cry (2004) into VMware, but it won't load. I think the 3D rendering in the virtual machine isn't enough to support the game....disappointing. Far Cry won't load on Windows 10 either, so I guess I'm stuck playing it on my older Vista gaming machine.

    In the late 90s I bought three first generation Microsoft gamepads...two Sidewinders and a Siderwinder Freestyle Pro. We used the crap out of them for the first few years, but I haven't touched them since and they've been collecting dust in my cabinet for around 15 years.



    The Sidewinder Freestyle Pro has a MIDI to USB adapter and Windows 10 recognizes it, but the games I play don't know what to do with it. Instead of wasting time fiddling with an antique, I ordered a new Logitech gamepad online. After using the Logitech and X-Box gamepads, I still think the Microsoft Sidewinder controller feels more comfortable in the hand. Anyway...I ended up tossing the three older ones in the trash.

    I'll be posting my list of games that work in a virtual machine. Most, if not all, will be older games that won't function in Windows 10 without some kind of hack or just won't work at all. The virtual machine I am using is VMware Workstation Player and the operating system will be Windows XP Professional 32 bit. VMware does allow 3D rendering in Windows XP, so a lot of older games that need this will work. I'll be updating the list every time I install a game.


    I'll sticky this. Feel free to post your own lists and experiences.


    List of games that work in VMware with Windows XP:


    Act of War - Atari

    Act of War: High Treason - Atari

    Arcade - Microsoft

    Command & Conquer: Red Alert 2 - Westwood

    Crazy Gravity - XLM Software

    Frogger - Hasbro

    Marble Drop - Maxis

    Return of Arcade - Microsoft

    Think X - JoWood

    Triazzle - Berkeley Systems

    Yahtzee - Hasbro

    I have an older gaming PC where I installed games that won't install in Windows 10 or work in a virtual machine. My first choice, for an operating system, was Windows XP, but I couldn't get a driver for an AMD Radeon HD 7790 to install. I tried various drivers from the net and the original one from the CD, but nothing worked. I gave up and eventually ended up installing Windows Vista 32 bit. All the drivers work without any problems.


    One important thing I did forget about Windows Vista, is the instability of the operating system. After installation I get, on average, 2-3 BSODs a day. Now I remember the reason why I ditched Vista as soon as Windows 7 hit the shelves. The OS isn't perfect, but using Windows 7, I can't remember ever having a BSOD.


    Anyway...the older games I wanted to play are installed and I haven't had any errors while playing. After installing Windows Vista, I also installed Windows 10 64 bit. Years ago I had several versions of Windows installed, but until now hadn't tried it with Windows 10. The boot loader (manager) in Windows 10 works well and looks pretty good too.

    How much PC stuff do you have?


    In the past I had a side business where I built and repaired PCs. Over the years I collected (saved) parts from various PCs and at one time I had enough to fill an entire room in my cellar. Since then I have filtered through the clutter (several times) and tossed items I thought I would never need. What is left is a single cabinet with things I might need or don't want to let go.

    How many computers do you own and what hardware are in the cases?


    In my house we have two PCs and three laptops. The laptops belong to my wife and the PCs belong to me.


    Here is the breakdown:


    Laptop - Toshiba: 11 years old and has a 15" display with a single core AMD CPU, 4 GB RAM, 320 GB hard drive and a DVD burner. Windows XP installed.

    Laptop - Lenovo: 6 years old and has a 17" display with a two core Intel Pentium CPU, 8 GB RAM , 1 TB hard drive and a DVD burner. Windows 10 installed.

    Laptop - HP: 2 weeks old and has a 17" matt display with an AMD Ryzen 5 3500u quad core CPU, 16 GB DDR4 RAM, 512 GB M.2 drive and a DVD burner. The laptop didn't come with an operating system and since my wife uses it only for basic office tasks and the internet, I was torn between installing Linux Ubuntu or Windows 10. Since she was already used to Windows 10 and to save me the time of teaching her how to use Ubuntu, I installed Windows.


    PC - custom: 11 years old and runs Windows Vista Home Premium 32 bit and Windows 10 Pro 64 bit. For hardware it has a LG 22" display, Intel Q9300 quad core CPU, bequiet! Dark Rock Advanced C1 CPU cooler, 8 GB DDR2 RAM, Sapphire Radeon HD 7790 1 GB graphics card, 320 GB SATA hard drive, DVD burner, be quiet! 750 watt gold PSU (overkill I know, but I didn't want to buy another PSU and the only replacement I had laying around was this one), bequiet! SilentBase 800 case, Creative 2.1 speakers, Microsoft keyboard and a Logitech mouse.


    My current PC is detailed in my signature below. I first built it in 2015 and have upgraded it multiple times. I am planning on upgrading it again later this year. I haven't decide whether I am going to upgrade the CPU to a used 4th generation i7, or a more expensive upgrade to an AMD Ryzen 5 CPU, new CPU cooler, 16 GB DDR4 RAM, and a new motherboard. No matter what I do, I will be keeping the hard drives, case, PSU, graphics card, displays and other accessories.

    Welcome to the site!


    The Fallout 4 mod community is really impressive with several thousand mods posted so far. From what I read, we won't see a Fallout 5 until after Bethesda releases Skyrim Elder Scrolls 6, which is supposed to happen in about two years. So the mods and Bethesda's Creative Club keep the game and the community alive...for now.

    A few weeks ago I tripped on the living room rug and went sideways, knee first, into the TV. The impact didn't break the glass, but it did do significant damage to the panel underneath.



    Luckily I wasn't injured, but I do feel stupid though.


    I looked around for a replacement and found a Grundig on sale for 200 Euros. Other retailers are selling the same TV for around 400 to 550 Euros, which makes my purchase a really good bargain.


    Here are some specifications for the Grundig 43GU-8768:

    • 43 inches
    • Resolution: 3840 x 2160 (4K)
    • DTS premium sound - 40 watts
    • Satellite HD triple tuner
    • USB recording
    • 2x USB 2.0, 1x USB 3.0
    • 4x HDMI
    • Bluetooth, LAN and WLAN
    • 3.5 mm plug
    • SPDIF line-out
    • RGB and S-video
    • 1x CI+ slot

    I've never found a TV that had speakers that I liked and this Grundig is no exception. Fortunately I have some old Logitech Z540 4.1 speakers laying around. The speakers came with an adapter that allows me to connect them to just about any source.



    Even though theses are attached to the 3.5 mm jack on the TV, using a RCA to 3.5 mm adapter, they sound pretty good. Maybe sometime in the future I will buy a 2.1 soundbar with a SPDIF plug, but for now these speakers will do.


    In September 2018, The Verge posted a tutorial on how to build a PC. This video has since been removed by The Verge, but before it was taken down a number of enthusiasts reacted to the tutorial. With a few exceptions, most of what needed to be said, was said. Below is the original video and a subsequent video of various enthusiasts who posted their reactions. After the original video, I will explain what went wrong. This video is an example of what not to do when building a computer.



    Builder talks about the price:


    0:15..."You can build a gaming PC for around a thousand dollars"

    In an online shop, I picked out parts for a gaming PC and it totaled 770.- Euros. If I bought used parts, I could put together a gaming machine for around 400.- Euros.


    0:18..."but I want to go all out, so I spent around two thousand."

    Maybe for his budget two thousand is all out, but I could easily imagine an all out gaming machine costing over ten thousand.


    The builder describes the things you will need to build the gaming rig:


    0:33..."a thermal paste applicator"

    What the crap is that? Never heard of one of those.


    0:34..."an Allen wrench"

    What? What for? I have never needed an Allen wrench to build a PC. Maybe The Verge is thinking about some custom loop water cooling kit. Which is not included in this build.


    0:36..."some tweezers to tie up the wires"

    Those aren't tweezers, those are zip ties or cable ties.


    0:40..."a Swiss Army knife that hopefully has a Phillips head screwdriver"

    This made me laugh. I'm assuming he's not building this PC in a forest with no access to tools, so why the crap would he want to use a clunky Swiss Army knife to assemble a computer? This makes no sense whatsoever.


    0:44..."and last, but not least an anti-static bracelet..."

    That is not an anti-static bracelet. I'm thinking this dude has never seen a real anti-static bracelet before.


    0:45..."which is to protect you and the parts..."

    Why would you need an anti-static bracelet to protect yourself? First of all, nothing in your pc build should be plugged in. Second, that's not how an anti-static bracelet works. It's not meant to protect you from being shocked by your electronics. And if something was plugged in, the last thing you want to be is grounded. If you were to stick your finger into a live PSU while wearing a real (or fake) anti-static bracelet, you are going to get electrocuted.


    1:41..."a gamer might care about a graphics card more than a video editor, who might want extra RAM to assist in editing large files"

    This is not true. A gamer and a video editor are going to equally care about what CPU, how much RAM and what graphics card are installed in their systems.


    2:16...He has a knife to open the boxes, there is no reason to tear the boxes open. You might need them later.


    The Installation begins:


    2:42...Why is he installing the motherboard before installing the CPU, CPU cooler and RAM onto the board? If you install the motherboard first, you will limit your work space, making it difficult to install the CPU, CPU cooler and RAM.


    2:42...It looks like the standoffs are already installed. In a tutorial it would be important to inform the viewer about the standoffs for the motherboard. If they are not pre-installed and a first-time builder installs the motherboard without the standoffs, then the builder will screw the motherboard directly onto the case causing the system to short circuit when powered on.


    2:50..."pay close attention to the brace that goes at the back..."

    It's not called a brace, it's called an I/O Panel.


    2:54..."you always have to make sure you really hammer it in..."

    In some 1990s PC cases I needed something harder than my hand to tap in the I/O Panel. Usually I used the hard end of the screwdriver, but never used an actual hammer. Over time it's gotten easier, but occasionally I'll still need a screwdriver tap to install a stubborn Panel.


    3:28..."secondly, it's pretty fast RAM. It's 2666 MHz I believe, so it's pretty fast"

    If he is comparing this to the previous system this new build is supposed to replace, then maybe this is fast. As far as DDR4 RAM is concerned, 2666 MHz is not very fast. DDR4 4000 MHz is fast.


    3:37..."open the slots first..."

    He is installing two modules and doesn't need to open all four slots...just saying.


    3:38..."aligning the stick with the middle of the strip..."

    It's not a strip it's a slot and most important, he has the DIMM in backwards. It will never fit into the slot the way he is holding it. A second later they cut away and show the DIMM aligned correctly before he installed it.


    3:50...The RAM is installed incorrectly. The Modules are installed in slots A1 and A2, they should be in A2 and B2. The RAM will not be able to function in Dual Channel mode if they are installed in A1 and A2. If he needed help, page 19 of the manual demonstrates the correct installation in detail.



    4:20...He installed the M.2 without installing the standoff on the motherboard. That will bend the M.2 and put unnecessary strain on the M.2 slot. If he has never done this before, then he should have read the manual. Page 44 demonstrates how to install the standoff and the M.2.



    4:48..."Now which lane you choose depends entirely on what other parts you are going to put into the system. I'm just going to pick the top one because the SSD is at the bottom and I don't want to cover it. I just think it looks nice."

    No, this is wrong. The top slot on this board is PCIe x16, the second slot is PCIe x8. You always install your graphics card in the slot with the most data lanes (band width) and not because it just looks nice.



    5:22..."with these little insulating pads, so that the power supply doesn't short circuit and come into contact with the rest of the system."

    Those aren't electrical insulating pads, they are anti-vibrating pads to help reduce noise from the PSU. Your PSU will not short circuit anything if it touches the case. Where does this guy get his info?


    5:34...He just put the power supply in backwards. He has the fan side pressed up against the case's wall. The fan in a PSU sucks in air to cool the components. As soon as the power supply is under load it's going to overheat. I'd be surprised if this power supply lasts more than a few weeks before breaking.


    5:57...He didn't install the fans onto the radiator before putting it into the case. That is going to be next to impossible now that the graphics card is already installed. He'll have to remove the radiator to install the fans.


    6:02...He already removed the plastic cap off of the CPU water block. You don't want to do that unless you are going to install the water block right away. Keeping the cap on will prevent accidental smearing of the paste.


    6:12...He is screwing the wrong screws into the wrong side of the radiator. The longer screws he is using in this scene are for mounting the fans. I'd be surprised if he doesn't puncture the radiator.


    6:24..."Every power supply is going to come with a big bag of Velcro cables..."

    Wrong. Not every PSU is modular and not every modular PSU manufacturer delivers their cables with a bag. Some just have them laying in the box.


    6:34...You should plug in the cables you are going to use before you install the power supply into the case. Some cases won't have enough room to install the cables after the power supply has already been installed.


    6:57...He doesn't explain how to install the front I/O panel cables, internal USB plugs and front panel audio connector.




    7:13...You should never throw away the CPU socket cap. Asus and some other manufacturers will not process RMAs without the cap on the socket. Read the manual, page 94.


    7:17..."and now we have an exposed CPU holder or rather slot on the motherboard"

    It's not called a holder or a slot, it's a socket. Just saying.


    7:27...CPU Applicator (CPU Installation Tool)? Never seen one, never used one. Just line up the arrow on the CPU with the arrow on the socket. You don't need a CPU Applicator (CPU Installation Tool). You can throw that away.


    7:38...That CPU is an engineering sample. The Verge probably got that for free, which means they didn't go all out and spend two thousand dollars on this build.


    8:17..."every CPU cooler actually comes with a bit of thermal paste..."

    Wrong. Many coolers, especially air coolers, do not come with thermal paste already applied.


    8:21..."but it's usually not enough, it's good essentially PC building practice to have a little extra..."

    Wrong. If the CPU cooler already comes with thermal paste, then that paste should be enough. What should be the concern is: how old is the paste and what is the quality.


    8:29...What the crap is he doing? You do not need that much thermal paste on the CPU. Usually a drop the size of a pea, in the middle of the CPU, will do. If you put too much thermal paste on a CPU, it will squeeze out onto the motherboard when you tighten down the cooler.


    8:42..."and they're going to keep the cooler raised off the processor, but it's also going to be close enough to actually physically come in contact with it...like basically keep it cool."

    What!?! If your cooler is not directly contacting your CPU, the CPU will overheat. Basically keeping it cool is not close enough to work.



    9:03...Here you can see the case's side vent. If the PSU was installed correctly, then the fan would be sucking in air from this vent.


    9:05...OK, I'm not the most artistic cable manager, but posting a PC building tutorial should include how to properly manage cables in the build.


    9:20..."...installed Windows in a couple of minutes..."

    No he didn't. Depending on which version is on that flash drive, the updates alone will take a minimum of 30 minutes.


    And this was a sponsored video. If I was the sponsor, I would be pissed.



    Enthusiast's reactions to The Verge tutorial.


    The replacement PSU came today. I'm a little surprised, because the power supply bequiet! sent me is a Dark Power Pro 750 watt Platinum. That PSU costs about 50 Euros more than the broken one and the one that I replaced it with. I will be swapping out the new one I purchased a few weeks ago with the Dark Power Pro. I'll shelve the Gold replacement PSU for a future backup...if needed.

    Today, without warning, my computer shut down. After examining the external and internal cables, I came to the conclusion that it was the power supply. I purchased the PSU back in 2015 and it has a 5 year warranty. I really didn't want to wait a week or more to get a replacement, so I went to the local PC store and bought another PSU (Straight Power 11 750 watt Gold from bequiet!). Bequiet! is a German company. Their computer hardware as well as their customer service are really good. My case and CPU cooler are also from bequiet!.


    When I get the replacement from the manufacturer, I'll just file it away as a backup.

    A few months ago one of my older external hard drives stopped working. When I plugged it in to the PC Windows recognized something was connected, but wouldn't read the drive. I tried plugging it into a PC loaded with Linux, but that didn't work either. I could live without the data on the drive, but I still wanted it all back. I came up with an idea to swap out the logic board (controller) with a similar model from Western Digital. I spent several months looking on Ebay for the same model and last week I finally found one. There were some other annoying bidders jockeying for the same hardware and when the auction was over I ended up paying more than the drive was worth.


    After the new/used drive arrived I switched out the logic boards. Afterwards I plugged in the original hard drive, but nothing happened. I know the logic board from Ebay worked, because I tested it before I removed it from it's case. Disappointed I installed the good logic board back onto it's drive and plugged it in...nothing but a very audible clicking noise. I think I managed to break the good drive too. :rolleyes:


    So I now I've got two Western Digital paper weights taking up space in one of my junk drawers. Fantastic. :(

    After my Sony Xperia cell phone charger broke, I looked around on Amazon for a replacement and found quite a few supposedly original Sony chargers. Reading the reviews it was obvious that most were not original, but instead were poor quality Chinese copies. Eventually I found a site that sells a German made multi charger from the company Ansmann. Costs around 22 Euros.


    The charger comes with a two year warranty and has a USB 3.0 fast charger plug included. So far I've had my cell phone, keyboard and tablet plugged into it, all at the same time. Works perfectly, but gets a little hot while charging multiple gadgets...nothing too drastic though.


    Besides tinkering with my PCs and such, I still have to do the odd job or repair around the apartment. Many of those tasks need a cordless drill/screwdriver. In the 90s I owned a Bosch, but I eventually traded it for a Zip Drive and some Zip disks...priorities.;) Later, I thought I would save some money and buy a no name 20 Euro cordless. This was a mistake, I ended up replacing the batteries about every two years. So, this week I finally bought a quality cordless, a Makita DF333D. Purchased it for 125 Euros including the Makita bit set. For those who don't know, Makita is an independent Japanese power tool company.


    This thing has got some power! I love that each battery has a display indicating how much juice is left. No more guessing. The Makita charger charges the batteries in around 30 minutes. My old cordless took at least two hours to fully charge. The bit case is a little awkward though. If you are not careful you could easily break the smaller bits when pulling them out of their holders. Also, when you put them back in the case, you really have press down on them to get them into the holder.


    Apparently this is a bug that has plagued Avast users as far back as 2018.


    Quote

    Yes the problem is that auto-recovery when service isn't running doesn't work on latest Windows 10. We plan to release hotfix for version 18.4 today, and next week also fix for version 18.3


    Browsing through some of the forums on Avast's website, it appears that the problem still persists for some users. I would suggest using a different security software until Avast can fix the problem.

    A few weeks ago Windows auto updated my system and some other Microsoft applications such as Sticky Notes. Sticky Notes is an app I've been using since Windows 7. Normally I write down all my notes in OneNote, but for the topic quicky I use the Sticky Notes app.


    That is until the latest update.


    Here are some bugs:

    • Each note opens with a separate button on the Task Bar. Since I prefer not to combine the buttons on the Task Bar, having Sticky Note open with a new button for every note, is annoying and a waste of Task Bar real estate.
    • Notes are missing. Only one or two notes show up on the screen. The missing notes are still there in the Notes List, but I have to reactivate them every time I turn on my computer. Why!?!
    • When I reactivate a note out of the Notes List, it automatically expands to half of my screen. I have to manually resize every note that comes out of the Notes List.

    These are the bugs that I know of. There might be more, but I lost my patience and shut the app down. Microsoft royally screwed Sticky Notes up. The worst part is, it's been weeks since this has happened and I haven't seen any response from Microsoft.

    Hi and welcome jbket14!


    The site is relatively new. Because of all my other projects, I've had little time to promote Computer Forum. If there is any thing I can help you with just pm me or post to the forum.


    Have a great day. :)

    I purchased Sony's MDR-XB950AP headphones a few days ago. I think I should have paid more attention to the model number, because the XB means extra bass. Sony isn't messing around here, they've tweaked the bass on these cans to an extreme. While playing Fallout 4 the bass made walking in power armor sound like I was a 30 foot robot. Regardless whether I was listening to music, or watching videos and regardless of which media player I was using, I couldn't adjust the bass to a satisfactory level.


    Needless to say, I sent them back. I guess, for now, I'll stick with my Philips SHP 8900 cans.